It’s 10am, and spears of golden sunlight are piercing the clouds draped over the forested peaks of the Alishan range in southwestern Taiwan. My mode of transport is a steam train, and in many ways, little has changed since it first rumbled through these alpine forests in 1912.
Outside my window, dense groups of hinoki — also called Japanese cypress — form a ceremonial path, standing tall like sentinels. Their twisted yet rigid trunks compete for room alongside bamboo, which holds great significance for the Indigenous Tsou tribe and serves various purposes ranging from building structures to making handicrafts.
For better or worse, this is a region shaped by the
Japanese
Those who came following the First Sino-Japanese War in 1895 included forestry specialists sent to the area near the start of the twentieth century. These experts verified the existence of an extensive population of conifer trees in the region.
In 1906, the Japanese company Fujita Group set about building a railway, desperate to nurture a forestry industry built on the vast swathes of cedar and cypress blanketing these mountains.
But doing so wasn’t easy. Construction was abandoned in 1908, prompting the
Taiwanese
the government assumed control of the project, and in 1912, the initial steam locomotives embarked on their journeys along the rails.
Thrumming along newly refurbished rails
Today, as I journey through the Alishan National Scenic Area’s woodlands on the newly refurbished 71-kilometer route,
railway
(resuming full operations in 2024), it becomes clear why Japan conceded defeat. This path features numerous hairpin turns, 77 bridges, and 50 tunnels—one of which now showcases gigantic sunflower murals.
Shay locomotives from the US were brought in to assist with moving substantial freight—loads of wood bound for Taiwan’s harbors—but several challenges proved more difficult to address. The area frequently faced disruptions due to typhoons, earthquakes, and landslides. Building the initial railroad was an impressive engineering accomplishment that demanded extensive labor resources.
A significant number of these employees resided in Chiayi, a compact town with roots deeply embedded in the logging sector. This place serves as the departure spot for the historical rail line and currently draws many visitors due to Hinoki Village—a collection of low-slung wooden bungalows constructed originally to serve as lodgings for staff working in railways and forests. Today, these quaint cabins accommodate guests.
souvenir
stores offering cedarwood cutting boards and oolong tea cultivated locally.
Unfortunately, the railway came to a standstill in the 1960s with the decline of the forestry sector. Though sporadic services continued over time, Typhoon Morakot dealt the decisive blow when it struck in 2009, leading to the shutdown of a rail route desperately requiring significant maintenance and care.
The railway serves as a ‘living history of Taiwan.’
The workforce responsible for reviving this railway in 2024 may not reside in Hinoki Village, yet their dedication is equally profound as that of its former inhabitants.
All those engaged in the renovation, be they the station masters stationed at some of the line’s most secluded stops or the engineers who manually installed tracks in hard-to-reach areas, share this viewpoint. It was not merely about swapping out a handful of sleepers.
Mr. Shen Yi-Ching, who leads the Safety Management Division, explains, “The Alishan Forest Railway is more than just a railway; it serves as a living testament to Taiwan’s past. Established during the Japanese colonial period for logging our valuable woods, this railway facilitated the transportation of timber. Over time, it fostered settlements, economic activities, and distinctive cultural practices.”
Moreover, this cultural aspect is celebrated by the railway through various means. Some compartments are paneled with aromatic cedarwood, while many stops along the journey mirror the ambiance of sacred forest shrines.
As we approach, I observe the conductor leaning out of the window handing over a sizable token connected to a length of rope to the stationmaster.
train
When it departs, another token is handed back to the conductor. This ceremony has been around since the railroad’s prime era, serving as proof that the train was authorized to travel through the preceding stretch of track and now has clearance to move forward to the subsequent section.
Tourists have replaced cargo
Train stations like Jiaoliping, nestled between cedar-covered mountains and a track-side, lantern-lit temple, boast immaculate cleanliness.
All too often,
railways in Europe
turn into disposal sites for abandoned bottles, cans, and various debris. However, in this area, even small pieces of trash are swiftly cleared away by locals who view the railway as essential infrastructure. They frequently organize cleanup events to keep their community rail line pristine.
The trains rumbling down this rail line weren’t solely used for transporting timber; they also ferried provisions and mail, linking residents with the broader world. Nowadays, the freight consists of visitors – an asset just as significant. Numerous stops now serve dual purposes as starting points for various journeys.
hikers
eager to discover the paths winding through Alishan’s mountains speckled with fireflies.
The railway workers and loggers who used to stop at these stops for resting and refueling spots have since been taken over by visitors queuing up at snack stands to indulge in bento boxes that were previously consumed by those working along the rail lines. It’s worth trying some turkey rice (a local specialty here in this region of Taiwan) accompanied by a mug of oolong mountain tea (gāoshān chá).
Artifacts from the railroad’s prime time can be found everywhere you look. You’ll come across corroded fire-fighting devices that were formerly employed by maintenance crews to douse flames ignited by engine sparks. Lin Wen’an, residing beside the small Dulishan railway station along the tracks, eagerly shares with travelers the device passed down from his late grandfather.
At Fenqihu Station, ancient tools are showcased. The station features a grand, cathedral-style wooden locomotive shed that has been converted into an exhibit area, allowing guests to explore the railroad’s past.
Dawn breaks over Taiwan’s highest summit
Many individuals consider their ultimate stop as Alishan Station, situated 71.4 kilometers away from Chiayi. However, the brief yet delightful Zhushan Line, added in 1984, has also become a significant chapter in the railroad narrative. This segment stands out as the sole addition to the Alishan Forest Railway constructed post-World War II.
After reaching Alishan Station, I head back aboard what they call the sunrise train for a half-hour trip to Zhushan Station. Situated at an altitude of 2,451 meters, this station holds the distinction as Taiwan’s highest railway stop. Following extensive renovations in 2023, it now features an expansive roof designed like intertwined ribbons and architecture that draws inspiration from the frequent cloud cover enveloping the nearby mountain summits.
The natural world also influences its design in clear-cut manners; close to the entryway, a majestic red cedar sprouts through a custom opening in the ceiling. This structure offers a Taiwanese interpretation of mid-century modern architecture similar to those found in Palm Springs, where round apertures were often created for integrating palm trees into their surroundings. Similarly, nature dictates when trains leave—the timing relies on sunrise each morning—this information appears on signs at platforms but requires manual updates.
A
train
The worker explained that even though this specific trip lasts only 30 minutes, it produces comparable revenues to those generated by the revived Alishan Forest Railway. This is because each day at dawn, visitors rush to catch the train so they can view the sunrise from an overlook near the Zhushan station, with Jade Mountain—a prominent natural attraction—and numerous other scenic marvels visible in the distance.
The Alishan Forest Railway is a railway which has truly stood the test of time, and it’s fitting that much of its restoration was carried out not with machinery but by hand. It’s a labour of love, and one which passed a recent, unexpected test with flying colours.
A short time following its launch in July 2024,
Typhoon Gaemi
The typhoon swept across Taiwan, causing landslides that led to the temporary closure of the railway for track clearance. However, unlike the storm, which effectively ended operations in 2009, the railway suffered minimal damage from these events and reopened just one month after being closed, demonstrating that this fragrant cedar haven remains resilient and enduring.
