At a storefront in Queenstown, New Zealand, amidst a crowd of enthusiastic hikers, an authorized Milford Track guide looks at my overstuffed backpack.
“It seems pretty hefty,” he remarks, grasping the upper handle and raising it several inches from the ground. “You certain you want to carry all of that?”
My longtime buddy Katie glances down at her backpack, cheerfully noticing it’s a bit heavier by a few kilos compared to mine, and gives me a sly grin.
“I believe we can manage it,” she responds.
In the end, we had faced challenges greater than the upcoming 53.5-kilometer trek. Many years back, we were two young professionals carving out careers in the entertainment industry during the early 2000s. “Press on” was our mantra—but little did we know just how severely this credo would soon be put to the test.
However, before we proceed, let’s rewind to the beginning of last year. Emerging from the pandemic with two brand-new “pandemic” infants in tow, I found myself unable to fully immerse in a string of travel adventures that once would have thrilled me. Travel had long served as both an instant mood booster and a way to shift perspectives for me; yet now, it elicited no emotion at all. Realizing this, I knew I needed to change how I approached travel—and I concluded that taking on the physical challenge of a multiday trek was essential. Stepping onto some grass seemed like just what I needed.
Three decades prior, my mother tackled the Milford Track at age 40, following the birth of my sister—while being nearly 41 myself, coming off my second child, I sensed an almost heavenly balance in these circumstances, as though fate was playing a delightful trick. Perhaps this could also be seen as the feminine version of a midlife awakening? Regardless, I committed fully to the five-day journey and persuaded an old pal to accompany me.
The ‘Great’ Milford Track
One of New Zealand’s premier ‘Great Walks’, the Milford Track stands out as possibly its most renowned trail. It meanders through lush temperate rainforests, vast wetland areas, pristine waterways, and an elevated mountain pass. For generations, Māori traversed these stunning natural routes, transporting precious pounamu across the pass — however, today only 90 individuals per day can carry all their necessities over this five-day journey within a compact, 10-kilogram pack.
Out of those observant trekkers—known locally as “trampers”—forty adventurous souls opt for an independent journey, tackling the trail within a span of four days and finding refuge in the modest shelters maintained by the Department of Conservation. As for myself? If presented with the luxury of warm showers, prepared dishes, and regional wines, I’d surely seize the opportunity. Hence, we secured our place amongst the leftover forty-eight guided participants venturing through Fiordland National Park’s often unpredictable climate under the guidance of Ultimate Hikes, where we’d enjoy accommodations in their exclusive lodge facilities along the route.
My buddy and I landed in Queenstown on a bright Sunday, meeting up with the folks from Ultimate Hikes headquarters the previous day as we prepared to venture deep into Fiordland’s wilderness. In anticipation of the challenging days ahead, I’d spent several months getting ready – yet standing there, assessing everyone else’s physical condition, I felt daunted. To be frank, right then I quickly returned to where I was staying and unpacked again, stripping down some items in an effort to lighten my load since even my pack had raised eyebrows among our guides due to its bulkiness.
An introductory guide to the five-day trek
If you’re starting out on a multi-day trek for the first time, consider these insights from someone who just did their maiden five-day walk. You probably require fewer supplies than anticipated—so pare down that list and remove unnecessary extras since lugging even an additional kilogram can feel burdensome over long ascents. Should weather predictions indicate precipitation, opt for shorts instead of trousers; trust me, once your hiking pants get damp, they become quite uncomfortable against your skin. Definitely spend some pre-trek time breaking in fresh footwear—if mine were brand-new, I walked about six to eight kilometers locally beforehand while fully geared up to ensure comfort later. Remember, every hiker dreads blisters most of all, particularly knowing you still face another grueling 20-kilometer stretch ahead tomorrow.
Consider investing in some potent insect sprays that might not be legal in various regions due to their high toxicity levels. To clarify, despite using Bushman Plus—a strong, 80% DEET bug repellent—I ended up with numerous mosquito bites anyway.
Lastly, regarding the chilly weather; if your hiking plans include warmer seasons—despite what may appear as cooler conditions along your route (we encountered temperatures dropping close to six degrees Celsius at one point)—you’ll likely find yourself sweating more than expected. Opt for clothing made from materials designed to remain comfortable under varying temperature changes such as dampness: try merino wool socks, thermal underwear, moisture-wicking tops, and bring a lightweight waterproof jacket suitable for layering beneath other garments. Remember this advice shared repeatedly by our guides: begin your trek feeling slightly chilled so you won’t overheat later on.
The itinerary
On day one of the trek, things kick off gently. You begin with a scenic ferry ride from Te Anau Downs to the starting point of the Milford Track, which serves as a picturesque preview of how disconnected you’ll be—since there won’t be any cell service or internet access for the upcoming five days. Following a short 1.2-kilometer stroll, we reach our initial accommodation—a basic cabin featuring either bunk beds and communal facilities or a private suite complete with an en-suite bath. Supper is served promptly along with the morning schedule; despite the early hour, it offers little reason for complaint thanks to its multi-course menu and selection of wines available at additional expense.
On day two, the initial test awaits: an 16-kilometer hike leading you to the Pompolona Lodge, which serves as your checkpoint. Here, you receive instructions regarding day three—the toughest leg of your journey. Early risers set off around 6 am, tackling the ascent up to McKinnon Pass, reaching an elevation of 1140 meters, followed by a strenuous descent down the same path. The rain intensifies during this part, compelling you to use a more precipitous emergency route instead. Regardless of the chosen trail, both legs feel like they’re on fire once you finally reach Quintin Lodge feeling exhausted yet accomplished.
The final day of hiking covers the longest distance: a relatively easy 21 kilometers with little elevation change, though still demanding—especially when faced with heavy rainfall, as was the case by the time we got to Sandfly Point, which fittingly lives up to its name. After checking in and adding our names to the list of finishers, we await the ferry ride back to Milford Sound.
As our journey draws to a close, we spend our final evening at Mitre Peak Lodge—now returned to somewhat civilized surroundings and regrettably within reach of cell service. Our bodies feel every step taken during the hike, yet the breathtaking vista of Milford Sound offers some solace. The next morning, we carefully embark on a cruise, having applied Voltaren—a must-pack item—to soothe our weary limbs as we marvel at the Sound’s majestic scenery. During the four-hour return trip via bus to Queenstown, ample opportunity arises for farewells among our fellow hikers.
Beyond the hike
Stepping out of the remote tranquility of the Milford Track into the bustling Milford Sound ferry terminal, teeming with tourists, felt quite jarring. Despite months of rigorous training, I wasn’t prepared for this intense emotional response when returning to what’s considered “normal” life—especially dealing with the sudden availability of mobile service. This led to an unexpected wave of anxiety as the pressure of pending messages weighed heavily upon me. One moment I was celebrating having crossed the last 33 miles, achieving a monumental objective, then within just 20 emotionally charged minutes, everything seemed to crumble around me. Another trekker got his first call after five days, which turned out to be nothing but a scam. Such ironic timing did not escape notice.
As I took in the final traces of the Milford Track’s aromatic atmosphere, thick with moisture, and felt the rain perilously lash against our tiny boat amidst the turbulent waters, I glanced at my phone hoping to relive the experience. Scrolling through, I found myself looking at three pictures of old logbook pages from November 1994; three entries penned precisely 30 years prior, inscribed onto the aging paper in a warmly recognizable script. They were written by my mother.
“She declared loudly, ‘I did it,’” followed by a playful nod. “Just like splashing through puddles,” she added mischievously. Maybe this quest for novelty was really about rediscovering the thrill of travel, capturing my personal chapter in time. Leaving behind my very own one-line victory within the chronicles of Milford.”
Maybe someday, my boys will contribute their own as well.
The details
FLY
Direct flights operate from Sydney, Melbourne, Brisbane, and the Gold Coast to Queenstown with airlines such as Qantas, Virgin Australia, Jetstar, or Air New Zealand.
WALK
Meet your guides the previous day at Ultimate Hikes headquarters located right in downtown Queenstown. The trip includes a four-night-five-day experience with stays in their exclusive lodges, full meal service, and concludes with a cruise around Milford Sound on the last day. Prices range from NZ$2750 (approximately AU$2536) per person for shared accommodations up to NZ$6690 (around AU$6148) for individual rooms. The hiking period spans from November until midway through April.
ultimatehikes.co.nz
STAY
After or before your hike, make sure to relax at the luxurious lakeside hotel, The Rees. This establishment provides a frequent shuttle service to Queenstown, or alternatively, you can rejuvenate yourself with a walk along the scenic Queenstown Trail leading into town.
therees.co.nz
The author covered her travel costs personally yet was hosted as a guest at The Rees.
