At 10 am, beams of radiant gold light are slicing through the cloud cover enveloping the wooded summits of the Alishan mountain range in southwest Taiwan. I’m traveling via a vintage steam locomotive, and much remains unchanged from when this railway made its inaugural journey through these highland woods back in 1912.
Outside my window, dense groups of hinoki—also called Japanese cypress—are lined up along the path like an honor guard. Their twisted yet rigid trunks compete for room with bamboo, which holds great value for the Indigenous Tsou tribe and serves various purposes including construction and crafting.
For better or worse, this area has been defined by the
Japanese
Those who came here following the First Sino-Japanese War in 1895 included forestry specialists sent to the area as the new century began. These experts verified the existence of an extensive population of conifer trees in the region.
In 1906, the Japanese corporation Fujita Group embarked on constructing a railway, driven by their strong desire to foster a thriving forestry sector based on the extensive forests of cedar and cypress trees covering these mountainous regions.
However, achieving this wasn’t simple. The construction was halted in 1908, leading to
Taiwanese
the government assumed control of the project, and in 1912, the initial steam locomotives embarked on their journeys along the rails.
Echoing across newly refurbished rails
Today, as I traverse the woods of Alishan National Scenic Area via the newly refurbished 71-kilometer route,
railway
(resuming full operations in 2024), it becomes clear why Japan acknowledged defeat. This path features numerous zigzag turns, 77 bridges, and 50 tunnels – including one that now showcases gigantic sunflower murals.
Shay locomotives from the US were brought in to manage the substantial cargo—thousands of tons of wood bound for Taiwan’s harbors—but various challenges proved more difficult to address. The area frequently faced destruction due to typhoons, earthquakes, and landslides. Building the initial railroad was an impressive engineering accomplishment that demanded extensive labor force involvement.
A significant number of these employees resided in Chiayi, a compact urban area heavily influenced by the lumber sector. This town serves as the origin for the historical railroad and currently draws many visitors with Hinoki Village—a collection of low-set wooden bungalows constructed initially as lodgings for those working in railways and forests. Today, these quaint cabins accommodate guests.
souvenir
stores offering cedarwood cutting boards and oolong tea cultivated locally.
Unfortunately, the railway came to a standstill in the 1960s with the decline of the forestry sector. Though sporadic services continued over time, Typhoon Morakot dealt the decisive blow in 2009, leading to the shutdown of a rail line desperately requiring significant maintenance and care.
The railway serves as a ‘living history of Taiwan.’
The workers who brought this railway back to life in 2024 might not live in Hinoki Village, but their passion runs just as deep as its previous tenants.
All those engaged in the refurbishment, be they the station masters stationed at some of the line’s most secluded stops or the engineers who manually installed segments of track in hard-to-reach areas, share this viewpoint. It was not just about swapping out a handful of sleepers.
Mr. Shen Yi-Ching, who leads the Safety Management Division, explains, “The Alishan Forest Railway is more than just a railroad; it serves as a vivid chronicle of Taiwan’s past. Established during Japan’s rule for logging purposes, this railway facilitated the movement of timber from these valuable woods. Over time, towns, businesses, and distinctive cultural practices emerged alongside it.”
It’s a culture that the railway celebrates in various manners. Some compartments are paneled with aromatic cedarwood, and several stations along the way look like sacred forest shrines.
As we approach, I observe the conductor leaning out of the window handing over a substantial token, connected to a length of rope, to the stationmaster.
train
When it departs, another token is handed back to the conductor. This ceremony has been in place since the railroad’s prime era, serving as proof that the train was authorized to travel over the preceding stretch of track and is permitted to continue towards the subsequent segment.
Tourists have replaced cargo
Train stations like Jiaoliping, nestled between cedar-covered mountains and a track-side, lantern-lit temple, remain impeccably tidy.
All too often,
railways in Europe
turn into disposal sites for empty bottles, cans, and various waste. However, in this area, even small pieces of trash are swiftly picked up by residents from nearby neighborhoods. They view the railway as crucial infrastructure, and often come together to carry out scheduled clean-up events.
The trains rumbling down this track weren’t solely used for transporting timber; they also ferried provisions and mail, linking residents to the broader world. Nowadays, the freight consists of visitors – a similarly precious resource. Numerous stops serve dual purposes as starting points for various excursions.
hikers
eager to discover the paths meandering through Alishan’s mountain ranges speckled with glowing fireflies.
The lumberjacks and railway workers who used to stop at these stations for resting and refueling spots have been substituted by visitors queuing up at food stands to indulge in bento boxes that were previously consumed by those working on the railways. I suggest trying some turkey rice (a local specialty here in this region of Taiwan) along with a steaming cup of oolong mountain tea (known as gāoshān chá).
Artifacts from the railroad’s prime time are always within reach. You can find old corroded fire-extinguishing devices that were utilized by maintenance crews to put out blazes sparked by locomotive embers. Ruan Wen-An, residing beside the small Dulishan railway station, eagerly shares with travelers the particular device that belonged to his grandfather.
At Fenqihu Station, ancient tools are showcased. The station features a grand, cathedral-style wooden locomotive shed that has been converted into an exhibit area, allowing guests to explore the railway’s past.
Sunrise over Taiwan’s tallest peak
Many individuals consider the ultimate stop as Alishan Station, situated 71.4 kilometers away from Chiayi. However, the brief yet delightful Zhushan Line, added in 1984, has also become a significant chapter in the railroad’s history. This particular segment stands out as the sole addition made to the Alishan Forest Railway post-World War II.
After reaching Alishan Station, I head back aboard what they call the sunrise train for the half-hour trip to Zhushan Station. Situated at an elevation of 2,451 meters, this spot holds the distinction as Taiwan’s highest railway station. Following extensive refurbishment in 2023, it now boasts a grand canopy shaped like flowing ribbons and design features evoking the frequent cloud cover enveloping nearby mountain summits.
The natural world has also influenced its design in palpable manners; close to the entryway, a majestic red cedar pierces through a specially crafted opening in the ceiling. This structure embodies a Taiwanese interpretation of mid-century modern architecture similar to those found in Palm Springs, where round apertures were often created for integrating palm trees into the building designs. Similarly, nature dictates the timing of departures. These schedules vary based on when the sun rises each day and are indicated on signage at the platforms, with adjustments made by hand as needed.
A
train
The worker informs me that even though this specific trip lasts only 30 minutes, it yields comparable revenue to the revitalized Alishan Forest Railway. This occurs because each morning, visitors rush to catch the train so they can witness the sunrise over the far-off mountains at an observatory near Zhushan Station. Among the numerous natural attractions visible is Taiwan’s highest summit, Jade Mountain.
The Alishan Forest Railway has genuinely weathered the passage of time, and it’s appropriate that significant portions of its refurbishment were completed manually rather than using machines. This project represents a labor of devotion, and it recently proved its resilience in an unforeseen trial with remarkable success.
A short time following its launch in July 2024,
Typhoon Gaemi
The typhoon swept across Taiwan, causing landslides that led to the closure of the railway for track clearance. However, unlike the typhoon that determined its outcome in 2009, the railway suffered minimal damage and reopened a month later—a testament that this fragrant cedar triumph will endure.
